WOMEN'S FASHION WEEKS FRONT ROW FW18-19
Our front row view at Women's Fashion Weeks.
In the era of see now buy now we are used to crave fashion through live streaming, social media stories, sneak previews, yet in the first one-and-a-half centuries of fashion magazines, there were only artists illustrations.
FW18-19 Women’s Fashion Weeks have just ended, and here are the highlights from the NYC, London, Milan, Paris: Front Row is our point of view of the most important catwalks, 4 iconic looks reported in the most poetic and nostalgic way, the illustration, drawn with love by our talented Claudia West.
Located at the Park Avenue Armory, Marc Jacobs closed NYFW with a gorgeous collection inspired by the 1980s big couturier names like Saint Laurent and Thierry Mugler. Mr. Jacobs boldly went away from all current trends and instead placed creative expression as the priority, focusing on his craft as a designer. The result is exaggerated wide-legged pleated trousers, big broad shoulders, oversized bow belts, and shoulders so wide and bold that probably can’t even fit through the door. An overdone, impressive celebration of the relationship between structural shape and magnificent color, without a doubt the most epic NY ‘fashion’ moment. Click below to see Marc Jacobs’ FW18 collection:
Since launching her label straight out of Central Saint Martins, Mary Katrantzou with her artistic and visionary talent has become a name for cooled-up cocktail dresses with hyperreal digital prints. Her last fashion show in London was the juxtaposition of two threads of thought that have been prevalent in her work in the past, an extraordinary collage of references from Victorian wallpapers and damasks to Bauhaus aesthetics to Pointillist paintings by Paul Seurat and Paul Signac. Every inspiration was translated into an inventive and innovative collection, and once again, we fell in love with sculptural shapes and volumes, extraordinary in their illusionistic allure. A visual feast of richly embroidered, intricately jeweled showpieces. You can have a bite of the fashion show below:
Unveiled in a septic setting that resembled an operating theatre, the Gucci Fall Winter 2018 fashion show by Alessandro Michele was a continuation of the fantasy world from which the designer draws his inspiration – following his own rules - referring this time to ideas about post-humanism and hybridisation:
Gucci Cyborg is post-human: it has eyes on its hands, faun horns, dragon’s puppies and doubling heads
Inspired by ‘Cyborg Manifesto’ by D.J. Haraway, models were walking the runaway revealing a rather peculiar accessory – a severed head - but also lifelike baby dragon and chameleon. Despite the sterile, clinical setting, the collection offered the sort of mix-and-match we’ve come to expect from Gucci: feather adorned gowns, initials of Major League baseball teams on some pieces, beaded jackets worn above patterned blouses and floral trousers underneath plaid skirts, while ruffles, turbans, full body jewels and knit-masks inspired by Japanese dance-drama theatre, all added to the multi-cultural, multi-world aesthetic. Watch it below:
Jacquemus has been offering a modern take on power dressing Parisian style infused with his unmistakable dreamy, poetical and sensual approach we could not fall in love. For the FW18-19 he ushered in his version of a warm winter collection inspired by Morocco. There were no complicating details or high fashion show off: just a mix of clingy, second-skin knits, flowing kaftan jumpsuits, draped slips, and teeny-tiny T-shirts worn braless. And we loved it! Perched on the perimeter of the Petit Palais, it was the ‘Triumph of the Woman’, like Georges Picard’s fresco is titled. The beginning of 2018 fashion gossip-sphere has been gripped of late by Simon Porte Jacquemus’s #newjob. Was it Céline? No. Was is Courrèges? No, no. The big reveal came at the end of the show: Jacquemus is launching - finally - a menswear line. Waiting for it, watch the full fashion show below: