WOMEN'S FASHION WEEKS FRONT ROW SS18

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Our front row view at Women's Fashion Weeks Spring-Summer 2018.

In the era of see now buy now we are used to crave fashion through live streaming, social media stories, sneak previews, yet in the first one-and-a-half centuries of fashion magazines, there were only artists illustrations.

SS18 Women’s Fashion Weeks have just ended, and here are the highlights from the NYC, London, Milan, Paris: FRONT ROW is our point of view of the most important catwalks, 4 iconic looks reported in the most poetic and nostalgic way, the illustration, drawn with love by our talented Claudia West.

 

NEW YORK

Come go with Marc, he’s got it made—let him take you on an escapade! - Marc Jacobs SS18

The Marc Jacobs show was silent with all the 56 models walking only to the sounds of their shoes on the old wood planks of the Park Avenue Armory. Then they came back out for their finale with the aria from the 1981 French film Diva as an accompaniment.

Clearly progressed from last season’s ode to hip-hop style, Jacobs’s idea here was to return to the archives with a visual joy, passing old ideas and former hits through ‘exaggerated, decadent, and exotic’ filters: this means huge flowers, hyper-vivid palette, turbans, weekender-size bags dangling charms that spelled Somewhere – 'It’s somewhere, I’m not sure where’-, tinsel trimmings, and yeah! sequins, sequins, sequins.

 LONDON

It’s about the perfect wife with a cleaning habit -Christopher Kane SS18

Inspired by the domestic life, this time Christopher Kane had a lot of fun with clothes, sending out a collection that co-opted the makings of supermarket cleaning equipment - muleses with mop binges or sponge details - naughty underwear, frilly ornaments, and gentlemen’s tailoring to his inimitably chic point of view.

The soundtrack perfectly suggested both the frenetic activity of a cleaning obsessive and an orgiastic heart beat with its subliminally mounting noises of vacuuming, flushing, and spin-cycle washing machine.

MILAN

A white canvas filled with ideas -Prada SS18

Set among the work of women cartoonists and manga artists whose drawings dominated Prada headquarters, the collection was based on putting her stamp on a blank canvas: coats, jackets, and cropped pants were screen-printed flat so that the creases showed, a deliberate homage to a rough analog hand-made techinque before the advent of the digital printing.

There were New Wave-y mash-ups of animal prints, cat-eye shades, zebra and leopard-spot prints, the final feeling reminds the do-it-yourself energy of early-’80s club, thrift shops and street style in London and New York, viewed through Miuccia's lenses.

PARIS

She was shy, and she was sexy -JACQUEMUS SS18

Set at the Musée Picasso, a national landmark never before used for fashion, Jacquemus fashion show was everything about the vivid nostalgia for his idyllic childhood in the South of France, which makes everyone dream about.

Going away from the stiff fabrics that made him well-known, this time Simon Porte Jacquemus has worked on the flou, the draping: the result are soft, draped asymmetric shapes, swathed into tulip skirts or side-knotted dresses, and wittily chic tops, turning beautiful local girls into sun drenched godesse.

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